A Village Wired to a Volcano

Walking back through the village later, Polly noticed steam rising not just from the cooking pits but from cracks along the roadside, from drains, and from a large public pool glowing a warm orange-brown in the afternoon light. The same heat that cooked lunch, it turned out, runs underneath the entire village and surfaces almost everywhere you look.

That heated water fills a large public bathing park nearby, where a giant pool stays warm year round without a single pump or boiler, along with smaller bathhouses tucked around the village that locals visit as easily as running a bath at home. Iron and minerals dissolved in the water turn it a deep, cloudy orange, which most visitors find strange at first and then oddly beautiful.

Some homes even pipe the underground heat directly into their own hot water, skipping the need for a water heater entirely. It occurred to Polly that this whole village runs, quite literally, on the volcano sleeping beneath it, cooking food, warming baths, and heating homes with no fire, no fuel, and no bill for any of it.

She perched at the edge of the great orange pool for a while, feeling the warmth rise off the water even from a distance, and thought that a place built directly on top of so much heat had found an unusually generous way to live with it.