那不勒斯湾

Polly在上午晚些时候来到了那不勒斯湾。水的颜色像绿色的玻璃。远处的维苏威火山被薄雾部分遮住。空气中弥漫着咸味和渔船柴油的气味。

Polly came in over the Bay of Naples in late morning. The water was the colour of green glass. Mount Vesuvius sat on the far side of the bay, partly hidden by haze. The air smelled of salt and diesel from fishing boats.

她沿着海岸线走。她看到阳台上挂着的衣物和街道上的摩托车。

She followed the shoreline. She could see laundry hanging from balconies and scooters in the streets.

她的目的地是水边的一座老建筑。一个小黄铜牌匾上写着“安东·多恩动物学站，成立于1872年”。

Her destination was an old building on the water. A small brass plaque read STAZIONE ZOOLOGICA ANTON DOHRN, FONDATA 1872.

Polly对这个地方很了解。它是由一位名叫安东·多恩的德国动物学家创立的。那不勒斯湾是欧洲最丰富的海洋生态系统之一。自1873年以来，这个研究所一直在研究章鱼。它是世界上仍在运作的最古老的海洋生物研究所。

Polly knew about this place. It had been founded by a German zoologist named Anton Dohrn. The Bay of Naples is one of the richest sea ecosystems in Europe. The institute has been studying octopuses since 1873. It is the oldest marine biology institute still working in the world.

她停在栏杆上。一个穿着海军蓝实验室外套的年轻研究员打开了后门。她看到了Polly，微笑着说：“进来吧。”

She perched on the railing. A young researcher in a navy lab coat unlocked the back door. She saw Polly and smiled. "Come on in."

建筑里有海水的味道。长长的走廊在充满水箱的房间之间延伸。透过玻璃墙，Polly看到沙丁鱼、角落里的一只小章鱼，还有海带上的一只海兔。

The building smelled of seawater. Long corridors ran between rooms full of tanks. Through the glass walls, Polly saw sardines, a small octopus in a corner, and a sea hare on a kelp blade.

研究员名叫Chiara Bianchi。她研究头足类动物的认知已经九年了。“这里的章鱼是最聪明的动物，”她说，“或者至少是我们确定有意识的最聪明的动物。”

The researcher's name was Chiara Bianchi. She had been studying cephalopod cognition for nine years. "The octopuses are the smartest animals here," she said. "Or at least the smartest ones we are sure are conscious."

她们来到一个高大的圆形水箱旁。旁边的卡片上写着“Pasta，2.3公斤，GPO”。里面，一只巨大的太平洋章鱼蜷缩在一段塑料管中。八只触腕整齐地缠绕着自己。一只金色的眼睛透过玻璃注视着。

They came to a tall round tank. A card on the side read PASTA, 2.3KG, GPO. Inside, folded into a coil of plastic pipe, was a giant Pacific octopus. Eight arms wrapped tidily around itself. One golden eye watched through the glass.

Chiara放下了她的咖啡。“Pasta，”她说，“认识一下Polly。”

Chiara set her coffee down. "Pasta," she said, "meet Polly."

章鱼没有动。但它的眼睛一直盯着Polly。

The octopus did not move. But its eye stayed on Polly.

“你可以停在边缘，”Chiara说，“她不会溅你。她早上很平静，下午会变得聪明。”

"You can perch on the rim," Chiara said. "She will not splash you. She is calm in the mornings. She gets clever in the afternoons."