披萨与悠长的午餐

Chiara在一点钟的时候关闭了实验室，准备享受悠长的意大利午餐。“跟我来，”她说。

Chiara closed the lab for the long Italian lunch at one o'clock. "Come with me," she said.

Polly停在她的肩膀上。Chiara走出实验室，迎着公园中午的阳光，向山坡上走去。

Polly perched on her shoulder. Chiara walked out into the bright noon of the park and turned uphill.

午餐时的那不勒斯是一个不同的城市。百叶窗开始升起，咖啡馆里人声鼎沸。早晨的咸味和松树香气变成了大火上烹饪的蒜香和番茄味。

Naples at lunch was a different city. Shutters were rolling up. Espresso bars were filling. The morning smell of salt and pine had turned to garlic and tomato cooked over a high flame.

Chiara带她来到一条小街上的小披萨店。店里，三个男人在一个占据整面墙的木柴炉前忙碌着。火焰的热度从门口就能感受到。

Chiara took her to a small pizzeria on a side street. Inside, three men were working at a wood-burning oven that filled the back wall. The fire was hot enough to feel from the door.

在那不勒斯，披萨与世界其他地方的披萨不同。它是一种那不勒斯披萨。这个城市两百年来一直守护着它的制作规则。面团只用面粉、水、盐和酵母。番茄是生长在维苏威火山坡上的圣马尔扎诺番茄。奶酪是当天早上新鲜的。罗勒是生的，最后才加。烤炉温度高达485摄氏度。披萨只需烤九十秒。

A pizza in Naples is not what most of the world calls pizza. It is a Neapolitan pizza. The city has guarded the rules for it for two hundred years. The dough is flour, water, salt, and yeast, and nothing else. The tomatoes are San Marzano, grown in volcanic soil on the slopes of Vesuvius. The cheese is fresh that morning. The basil is raw, added at the end. The oven runs at 485 degrees Celsius. The pizza cooks for ninety seconds.

披萨师傅将一块玛格丽塔披萨放入炉中。九十秒后，他将其取出。饼皮上出现了深色的斑点，奶酪融化成淡淡的池塘。

The pizzaiolo slid a margherita pizza into the oven. Ninety seconds later he pulled it out. The crust had blistered into dark leopard spots. The cheese had melted into pale pools.

Chiara递给Polly一小块饼皮。它咸咸的，略微焦黑，几乎没有重量。Polly明白了为什么这个城市花了两个世纪来保护这种美味。

Chiara handed Polly a small piece of crust. It was salty and charred and almost weightless. Polly understood why the city had spent two centuries protecting this thing.

“有一种理论，”Chiara说，“章鱼聪明是因为它们寿命短，必须快速学习。而我们聪明是因为我们寿命长，可以慢慢学习。Pasta会在两年内学会她所知道的一切。而我直到死去还在学习。”

"There is a theory," Chiara said, "that octopuses are smart because they are short-lived. They have to learn fast. We are smart because we are long-lived. We can afford to learn slowly. Pasta will learn everything she knows in two more years. I will still be learning when I die."

她们慢慢走回去。下午的阳光温暖宜人。

They walked back slowly. The afternoon was warm.